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Read moreThe Journal — Installation Guide
The complete pre-installation guide — from removing old wallpaper to the plumb line that keeps every panel perfectly straight.

Ready to Install
Ethereal Misty Forest Mural
Every Golden Era Walls mural comes with full installation instructions — and a complimentary squeegee on every order.
Ask any professional wallpaper hanger what separates a flawless installation from a frustrating one, and they'll give you the same answer: wall preparation. The wallpaper itself matters, but the surface it goes on matters just as much.
Whether you're installing peel and stick, non-woven, or pre-pasted wallpaper, this guide walks you through every wall prep step so your install goes on straight, looks perfect, and stays put.
Wallpaper is unforgiving. Unlike paint, it doesn't fill or hide surface flaws — it amplifies them. A small bump becomes a visible ridge. A poorly cleaned surface causes adhesion failure. A crooked first strip throws off every panel that follows.
Investing 2–3 hours in proper prep saves hours of rework or a complete reinstallation.
If you have old wallpaper, it needs to come down. Score the surface lightly with a wallpaper scorer, apply a wallpaper removal solution (or a mix of warm water and fabric softener), and peel away in sections working from the bottom up.
For painted walls, check for flaking or peeling areas. Run your hand across the surface. Any paint that feels loose or chalky needs to go. Use a putty knife to scrape away loose sections, then sand the edges smooth so there's no raised lip.
Adhesion depends entirely on a clean surface. Grease, dust, soap residue, and fingerprints all interfere with wallpaper glue or peel-and-stick backing.
Wash the walls with a TSP substitute or sugar soap. Both cut through grease and prep the surface for better bonding. Kitchen walls especially need this step — cooking vapors leave an invisible oily film.
Rinse with clean water, then let the walls dry completely — at least 24 hours. Moisture trapped under wallpaper causes bubbling and mould.
Wallpaper will show every imperfection underneath it. Nail holes, screw holes, hairline cracks — all of them need to be filled.
Let everything dry fully, then sand with 120-grit sandpaper until the patches are flush with the surrounding wall. Wipe away all dust with a damp cloth.
Even if your walls look smooth, a light pass with 120-grit sandpaper removes minor paint drips, bumps, and any areas where primer or paint has a slight texture. Focus on seams, corners, and anywhere you made repairs. After sanding, wipe down the entire wall with a clean, slightly damp cloth.
This is the most important and most skipped step. Standard paint primers aren't designed for wallpaper. Use a wallpaper-specific primer (sometimes called sizing or wallpaper prep). It does three things paint primer doesn't:
Roll it on evenly, cut in corners with a brush, and let it dry — typically 4–8 hours.
Before hanging your first strip, you need a true vertical reference point. Walls and corners are rarely perfectly plumb — if you use the corner as your guide, the pattern will drift visibly by mid-wall.
Measure the width of your wallpaper panel and subtract an inch. Mark that distance from the corner. Use a level to draw a perfectly vertical pencil line from floor to ceiling. This is where the edge of your first panel will align.
New drywall is extremely porous and must be primed before wallpapering. Without primer, paste soaks in unevenly, causing bubbles and making future removal nearly impossible.
Glossy surfaces resist adhesion. Lightly sand with 150-grit paper to dull the sheen, wipe clean, then apply wallpaper primer.
After stripping old wallpaper, the wall surface is often damaged — torn drywall facing, adhesive residue, or uneven texture. Skim coat the entire surface with joint compound if needed, sand smooth, and prime before proceeding.
Heavy texture (orange peel, knockdown, popcorn) is incompatible with peel and stick wallpaper. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over the entire surface, sand smooth when dry, and prime before installing any wallpaper.
Yes, priming is strongly recommended. Wallpaper primer seals porous surfaces, creates even adhesion, and makes future removal much easier. Skipping primer on raw drywall is one of the most common DIY wallpaper mistakes.
Smooth walls are required for peel and stick wallpaper. Heavy textures like orange peel or knockdown prevent full adhesion. For lightly textured walls, apply a skim coat of joint compound, sand it smooth, and prime before installing peel and stick.
Wait at least 4 weeks after painting before hanging wallpaper. Fresh paint needs to fully cure, not just dry. Hanging too soon can cause the wallpaper adhesive to bond with uncured paint instead of the wall, leading to peeling.
Skipping wall prep leads to visible imperfections telegraphing through the wallpaper, poor adhesion causing bubbles and peeling edges, pattern misalignment, and difficulty removing wallpaper later without damaging the wall.
Generally yes, especially for peel and stick wallpaper. Hanging new wallpaper over old creates an unstable surface. Stripping is always the safer choice.

Custom Sized to Your Wall
Vintage Chinoiserie Floral Bird Mural
With walls properly prepped, installation is straightforward — every mural is custom-cut to your exact dimensions before it ships.